This 1783 Dutch redbrick Colonialsits on one of the four corners at the traffic light in Hillsdale, a quiet townjust a few miles from the Massachusetts border. David and Stacy Lawson took over the inn in 1994. (It was formerly the well-known L’hostellerie Bressane, established by Jean Morel in 1971.) The new owners have made changes to the decor and to the menu, but one thing has stayed the same: It’s still “a restaurant with rooms,” says David, the chef-owner. A native Minnesotan who studied under Albert Roux in London, David was the executive chef at Blantyre, in Lenox, Massachusetts.
The French-inspired country cooking is the main draw here. For starters, try the restaurant’s signature dish: Maine scallop cakes with shiitakes, scallions, and bean sprouts in a warm ponzu vinaigrette. For your main course, the At-lantic salmon au poivre served over a fondue ofleeks with rich red wine sauce is delectable, as is the pan-roasted skate with spinach, Thai chile, and lemon sauce. One of the most popular desserts is the moist chocolate hazelnut cake with pistachio sauce.
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