On a 3,200-acre farm in the Allegheny foothills, 10 miles off the main road, John and Caryl Cowden raise Angus cattle, soybeans, and corn. The Cowpasture River deepens into a swimming hole nearby, and Shenandoah Mountain looms above, traversed by paths and logging roads. Below the manor house there’s a dining hall in an old mill, and a lodge. Common rooms contain mounted bears, raccoons, and red fox—all Allegheny Highland species. Lodge rooms are comfortable, with locally handcrafted furniture. The Cowdens have reconstructed two historic log cabins, now cozy accommodations with fireplaces, and there’s a restored stone hearth in the gathering room. Rooms in the converted silo are round. In this setting of fields, rivers, mountains, and forests, it’s not surprising that Fort Lewis Lodge is blissfully outdoorsy: In addition to swimming, there’s tubing down the river, fishing, hiking, biking, and terrific bird-watching. It’s great for kids. And at day’s end comes a return to Cowden hospitality, including Carl’s homemade dinners. |