West of Middleburg and Upperville along U.S. 50, the turnoff for minuscule Paris may surprise unwary motorists; half the travelers looking for this ham-let in a hollow below the road probably miss it completely and end up crossing Ashby Gap or the Shenandoah River. At the Ashby’s restaurant, visitors are treated to some of rural Virginia’s most sophisticated food, masterminded by innkeepers Roma and John Sherman. The menu changes seasonally; crab cakes, game bird potpie, and venison prepared any number of ways reign as favorites. Dinner runs about $70 for two.
Perhaps the only danger in staying at the inn is that dinners leave many guests too blissfully comatose to appreciate their rooms. There are six in the main building and four in the adjacent former schoolhouse. Those in the main building are allfurnished with a spareness that is a calming contrast to the rich food. Quilts, blanket chests, rag rugs, and the occasional cannonball bed set the country tone, though in every case, the views are the chief enhancement. As morning light shines through the windows, some guests may feast anew upon the garden, Blue Ridge foothills, lowing cows, and other pastoraldelights. The coveted Fan Room has four skylights and a glorious fan window opening onto a balcony.
The four expansive rooms in the former one-room schoolhouse are top-of-the-line and excellent values. Each has a private porch that opens onto those splendid countryside views. The Glascock Room has deep red walls, a canopied four-poster bed, and an antique trunk with extra towels. Oriental rugs cover the many hardwood floors, though some are carpeted, and there are two sinks in each large bathroom. Two wing chairs facing the fireplace and a window seat are inviting places for curling up with a book.
|